Vaulted ceilings that open up to a gaping skylight; vintage sofas and light fixtures that ooze art-deco glamour; a gleaming bar, backed by ceiling-high shelves; and cartoons and Crocs? These are the happy contradictions of Civil Works, the ambitious new venture by Nick Kennedy, David Huynh and the Civil Liberties team that's already become one of the best bars in Toronto.
The Gatsby-esque space radiates charm while remaining playful and mischievous. Bartenders in casual blue T-shirts and Crocs shake tipples behind a wraparound bartop that lets guests in on the mixology magic. Funnels of Toronto tap water, mineralized to taste like different regions of the world, resemble a science experiment behind the bar. This is Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory but for cocktail enthusiasts.
“We’re definitely attracting a lot of bar nerds,” grins Élise Hanson, Civil Works’s award-winning bar manager. Over the lengthy menu, Hanson’s imagination runs wild. She infuses aquavit with bivalves from Island Oysters for the Seatini, “a super crisp martini you just pulled straight out of the sea.” The Overhead Tonnage tames one of the most notorious cocktails in the game, the ramos gin fizz, by swapping the 15-minute shake for a hand blender that still delivers an impossibly tall, whimsical pillar of foam.
Civil Works co-owner Nick Kennedy and bar manager Élise Hanson
Craig Bagol & Nicole Helena
Then there’s the Pounding Sand, which has “all the makings of an al pastor taco,” Hanson explains matter-of-factly. This is her version of Wonka’s Three-Course Meal Gum: lacto-fermented pineapple, corn-husk-infused mezcal hesperidium, a house achiote cordial and masa foam (the “tortilla”) all equal a full feast of flavour.
Civil Works’s 16-page menu booklet, ‘A Manual for Laying Pipe,’ is a euphemism-packed tribute to the building’s past life as the Toronto Waterworks storage site in the 1900s. It’s crammed with history, hilarious quotes (“‘The 4-martini lunch is dead, thanks Obama.’ — Abraham Lincoln”) and building schematics.
Like the chocolatier’s wonderland, surprises are around every corner at Civil Works. Luckily, we don’t need a golden ticket to keep going back for more.
Craig Bagol & Nicole Helena
Strickling Bar
Named after a pipe-levelling tool, Hanson fine-tunes the Strickling Bar to achieve impressive flavour depth. “It’s a perfect blend of heat and spices, with a warm miso, caramel-like coffee finish. But don’t be tricked — this is quite a spirit-forward, negroni-esque cocktail,” she asserts. “It’s one of those drinks with an element of surprise. This cocktail is perfect for levelling off your night,” she winks.
Hanson mixes sherry with miso-infused dark rum, cacao distillate, a house-infused pasilla-cinnamon campari and fermented coffee bitters. The result? A complex sip that rapidly deepens into a slightly bitter, chocolatey finish.
Craig Bagol & Nicole Helena
Mediterranean Highball
Found under the ‘Pressure Management’ section of Civil Works’s menu, the Mediterranean Highball is elegant, sophisticated and a low-ABV option that’s perfect for easy sipping. Civil Works serves this tipple on tap. “It’s force carbonated. It’s refreshing. It’s herbaceous. It’s salty and bubbly,” beams Hanson proudly. “This is probably my favourite drink on the menu.” Snack on the juicy caper berry garnish, perched on the rim.
Black olives, thyme, rosemary and basil make up the herby olive cordial that gives this drink its name. It’s paired with fino sherry, Pernod and dry vermouth, and served with a transparent ice block.
