Estiatorio Milos: What's the vibe?
Estiatorio Milos might be a Canadian creation, but it took almost 50 years — and multiple expansions to global cities like London, New York and Dubai first — before Toronto got in on the action. Back in 1979, Costas Spiliadis opened the first Estiatorio Milos in Montréal, and today the upscale Greek chain has become synonymous with seafood, salads and simple, beautiful food. Estiatorio Milos Toronto, on Bay Street, lets us taste what all the fuss is about.
Not many downtown restaurants have this much real estate, but Estiatorio Milos stretches on around multiple corners, with several dining rooms and a gorgeous bar area. I'm seated just in front of the marketplace, in a room that feels like a gourmet food hall, with high ceilings reverberating the sound of multiple dinner conversations. The table clothes are crisp and white, and the servers are dressed equally immaculate.
At the front of the room, the marketplace showcases fresh fish on ice. Estiatorio Milos flies in seafood and crustaceans daily from around the world, including the Greek islands, and guests are invited to select their protein. There are also fresh fruits, veggies and olives on display in the pristine room, giving the feeling of being at a grocery store in heaven.
Estiatorio Milos: What's on the menu?
Perhaps the first thing you'll notice is the price tag. Dishes don't come cheap at Estiatorio Milos, but every plate is delivered with pizazz. Things kick off with bread service, featuring private-label olive oil and fresh basil, snipped with scissors by your server.
The ceviche, made using Greek sea bass, cucumbers, feta and Santorini beans, is more than your average starter at $47. However, it's a plentiful serving that comes with crostini for scooping all of those delicious juices. Next up, we order the Milos Special, a classic dish featuring an imposing tower of lightly fried discs of zucchini and eggplant, and a column of tasty tzatziki within. Finishing it is a herculean effort, so don't be afraid to pack it up to go.
With apps out of the way (the octopus is also unskippable), we move on to the mains. Fish can be prepared any way you like, from grilled to licked by charcoal, but I'm feeling indecisive and opt for the very hard-to-pronounce Astakomakaronada, a lobster pasta cooked in Athenian style. As it turns out, this translates to an entire crustacean (head and tail included) on our plate, steamed and sautéed with shallots, then tossed in a light tomato sauce.
Waistbands are starting to dig in, but we're assured there's room for the Ekmek Kadayıfı. The light dessert, made of layers of pastry soaked in a sugar-cinnamon blend, with a creamy vanilla custard centre, sprinkled with pistachios, is the perfect finale to this decadent meal.
Estiatorio Milos: What to drink
As with the food, the cocktails at Milos are sophisticated European twists on the classics — all presented in striking fashion. From spins on the New York sour — sweetened with honey and incorporating calvados and port wine — to Tio Pepe sherry-infused martinis, there's a Mediterranean mixed drink to suit your taste.
However, wine lovers will be happy sticking with the wine menu, flush as it is with outstanding Greek varietals like assyrtiko and xinomavro by the glass and bottle.
Dinner and drinks for two: around $400 before tax and tip.
