General Public: The vibe
Toronto might not be on a fault line, but once every few years, the restaurant industry experiences a seismic shift: a Jen Agg opening. That the restaurateur can still cause this much buzz 16 years after The Black Hoof arrived on the scene is a testament to her career and reputation. On opening weekend, I — and many other fans — head blindly to General Public, a new outpost on Geary Avenue, with absolutely no idea what I’ll find. What transpires is Agg’s grandest project, in both concept and scale.
As I gawp at the high ceilings, the pastel pink mezzanine level overlooking the dining room and the sleek wooden bar stretching one whole side of the restaurant, it feels like we’ve hit the big leagues. If I wasn't so aware of Agg's contempt for the Michelin Guide, I might think Toronto's serial restaurateur was gunning for a star.
Jenna Marie Wakani
The space, which Agg masterminded, is yet another labour of love. "If I could explain my process I would, but it is mostly just deeply trusting my instincts and taste," she says. "It is truly an organic process and as I live in the space and stare at every corner, more ideas infect me. I can't escape them, they keep me up at night until I bring them to life."
Jenna Marie Wakani
Agg's pain is truly our gain — you can't turn your head without finding yet another design gem at General Public, from trademark beautiful bathrooms to desserts served in teacups and lamps lighting up the bar area. "I couldn't possibly pick a favourite," says Agg. "I love the bar lamps, too. They were a pivot away from an earlier choice ... I really love the oversized peach fabric flower upstairs in our 80s disco dream room. I saw it in a storefront on Dundas and basically pulled over and made them sell it to me even though it was a display piece and not for sale."
Jenna Marie Wakani
General Public: The menu
With Haiti and mainland Europe informing some of Agg’s past ventures, an English-inspired concept wasn’t on my bingo card, but it's expertly executed. “What if a high-end British pub had the heartbeat of an American brasserie with the soft pulse of a steakhouse and some fond memories of The Black Hoof?” explains Agg. "It's hard to say where inspiration comes from, but I felt the city could use an 11 a.m.-11 p.m. spot where you could pop in for lunch or celebrate your 10th anniversary in style. It's a big, grand menu and chef James Santon has really hit it out of the park creatively."
Chef James Santon deftly executes the mandate across the large menu, from the tartare — curried lamb, not beef — served with a poppadom for shovelling; to the Baked Oyster Rarebit, which smothers malpeques in Worcestershire sauce, Guinness and cheddar.
General Public has a raw bar and an entire side of the menu. Choose from dishes like the Shrimp Cocktail with a heavenly Green Goddess sauce; the Bluefin Carpaccio with pickled onions and malt vinegar; or go all out with the Seafood Tower, featuring three opulent tiers of snow crab, oysters, lobster tail and stuffed clams.
Sides are some of the stars of the show. The Potato Roulade, presented in beautifully coiled cylinders, are delicately topped with fried rosemary. Order the crispy English Chips, then fight over each precious deep-fried potato as if your life depends on it.
There are plenty of English-inspired mains, from Cumberland Sausage to a Tongue and Tail Pie, with an absolutely gorgeous petal-like crust. You'll also find larger dishes skewing more on General Public's American brasserie side, like the Surf and Turf, Half Rack of Lamb and the New York Strip.
Peter Olson
This is the first time Agg has employed a pastry chef, so save some room for Gabi Araujo’s deep dessert menu. The English Pudding is a perfect pie crust covered in tart cherries, but there’s a Lemon Posset (served in teacups) and Crème Caramel if you only want a tickle.
"It has been a dream of mine for a decade to have a dedicated pastry station," says Agg. "It doesn't happen much anymore, for what I assume are obvious reasons (money), but it has been absolutely thrilling working with Gabi Araujo to put together an actual pastry menu with more than two desserts! She is so talented."
General Public: The drinks
Some of the strongest offerings at General Public come from the drink menu. For veteran bartender and expat, David Greig, putting the menu together was something of a homecoming. “I finally had an opportunity to lean into all things British,” he says. My favourite cocktail of the year is the Werewolf, a classy-as-hell riff on the pornstar martini, created in London in the early 2000s.
Peter Olson
"[It] blends in some spice flavours that remind me of Brick Lane, where I used to work," says Greig. Influence from the U.K. takes many forms, from culinary traditions (like Thai food served in pubs which inspired the Thai Margarita) to "cultural touchstones like the Italia being named after Bar Italia in Soho," Greig adds. "If I had to pick a favourite though, I’d probably go for the Suzuki. Essentially a scotch and soda (James Bond's most ordered drink in the original Fleming novels), with some subtle additions that give it a nuance and complexity that make it pretty unique."
Peter Olson
The Eton Mess is a gorgeous millennial pink dream in a tall glass, taking its inspiration from the traditional English dessert which combines strawberries with broken meringue and whipped cream for a delightfully messy treat.
Jake Skakun’s glorious "post-natural" wine list leans heavily toward classic styles while incorporating low-intervention expressions, with a focus on farming and sustainability. Expect a good selection of local wines from Pearl Morissette and Rosewood to Tawse and Therianthropy.
“The list is organized geographically, which is different from our other restaurants, and felt like a throwback to a big brasserie-style list,” says Skakun.
Dinner and drinks for two: Around $200 before tax and tip; @generalpublic201
