No Vacancy: What's the vibe?
On a late-night romp down the Ossington strip, you could practically close your eyes, point, and you'd stumble into one of the best bars in the city. With such stiff competition, Connor Gilbert, Joseph Lee, Chris Piron and Michael Swirla cranked up the romance when converting the beloved Ghost Chicken into an alluring new cocktail bar.
No Vacancy bears no hints of its poultry-packed past. From the moment I walk in, past the neon street sign, the deep red walls invite me to be their Valentine. There's plenty of exposed brick, emphasized by soft mood lighting; the gold bartop gleams seductively, like a piece of fine jewelry; and a gorgeous, sprawling mural freezes No Vacancy in an eternal sunset. The yellow-orange, leather bar seats are comfy enough to rival the dining room couches. Even the washroom is drenched in red.
The bar is packed with first dates, friends debriefing over their latest Hinge matches, and couples celebrating anniversaries. Love is in the air, and soon I can't help but be wooed by the ambiance.
No Vacancy: What's on the drink menu?
Bar manager Troy Gilchrist (Overpressure Club, Figo, Boehmer) steers the cocktail menu into Japanese waters, and isn't afraid to wield unfamiliar ingredients to craft a delicious drink. Gilchrist's cocktails don't deviate from No Vacancy's palpable sensuality.
Beyond the not-so-subtle allusions in the tipple's titles, there are so many flavour layers to peel back — aided by house infusions and cordials — that you'll discover a new tasting note with each sip. There's also a sake selection, Japanese whisky and shochu highball menus, a robust, international wine list and non-alcoholic cocktails.
I start with The Jump Off, an ultra-luxurious espresso martini made with Vietnamese coffee from Cộng Cà Phê, St. Remy XO brandy, Licor 43, Amaro Averna, Dillon's Coffee Liqueur and nutmeg. I can practically chew the chunky foam that somehow never dissipates — it's like coffee cake in a glass, and I'm engrossed. There's a big dose of caffeine, and soon I'm bright-eyed and chatty.
Next, The Pornographer isn't as sultry or nocturnal as its name might imply — a soft prosecco foam is quite bright and peppy, with floating Japanese rice vinegar balls for texture. It's a fruity sipper that tastes like Gilchrist distilled a cornucopia into a glass.
The Smokey Nagata's Supra marries Mexican mezcal with plum wine (choya kokuto), coffee liqueur, pear sake and black walnut amaro for a tipple with some serious flavour depth. It's like an old fashioned that spent its last summer abroad. The Strawberry Fetish is sweet, bubbly and easygoing, and reminds me of an Orange Crush (but strawberry, of course).
No Vacancy: What's on the menu?
Chef John Carlo Zabala's bites are mostly Japanese-inspired, but don't hesitate to veer into familiar favourites from other cuisines, too. The steak frites, for example, gets cheeky by turning the traditional dish on its head, swapping the fries for a confit potato brick, and cooked beef for a generous topping of sirloin tartare, garnished with a sizeable truffle coin. It's light, fresh and a large enough portion to share.
The menu is divided into bite-sized sections: 'raw,' 'snacks,' 'veg,' 'big eats' and 'something sweet.' Next, we try the maitake and leek skewers topped with candied walnuts and a sprinkling of pecorino. The leeks are soft enough to melt in my mouth, and the mushrooms and veggies are tender, but the star of this dish is the aromatic charred onion aioli that envelops the table in a cloud of thick, sweet aroma.
From the 'big eats' section, the bucatini is a highlight. The pasta's pork belly sauce is complemented by a pile of tobiko (flying fish roe) for a tantalizing pop of texture. Uni, or sea urchin roe, adds creaminess.
If you'd like to let chef Zabala guide your dinner experience, No Vacancy offers $70 and $95 tasting menus.
No Vacancy: What else?
Whether you're meeting a Hinge date, playing footsies under the table with your boo or just looking to chat with friends, No Vacancy's red-soaked ambiance is unmatched. Paired with Gilchrist's mixology mastery and chef Zabala's culinary chops, it's the perfect setting for a steamy date night.
Dinner and drinks for two; $130 plus tax and tip
