The Aegean archipelago, with its countless islands, is the home of many grand terroirs, unique grape varieties and distinctive wine styles. The volcanic island of Santorini lies in the heart of the Aegean Sea. Born of major volcanic eruptions throughout its history, Santorini’s breathtaking beauty is difficult to put into words.
Since the prehistoric era, the island has had a long tradition of winemaking, which is evident nowadays from the old, ungrafted, basket-trained vines, sitting, in many cases, on 200-year-old roots. Due to the sandy volcanic soils, Santorini is a phylloxera-free island, which allows the Santorini vineyard to be considered one of the oldest in the world. The island is buffeted by strong air currents and the growers have developed two unique training systems to protect their vines, the basket-trained vine (kouloura) or the goblet-shaped, low-trained, “koulouraki.”
No Greek variety other than assyrtiko has been praised so much by wine-professionals all over the world. Under the dry conditions of PDO Santorini (ΠΟΠ Σαντορίνη), it produces wines of great pedigree that are powerful, intense, terroir-driven, bursting with sea-salt minerality and have great ageing potential. Even though it is not aromatic, the steely structure, the depth of fruit, the austerity, along with the high levels of acidity and alcohol, give assyrtiko from Santorini its intense and distinctive personality. It dominates the blends of dry PDO Santorini (ΠΟΠ Σαντορίνη), making up at least 85 per cent of the blend, complemented by athiri and aidani grapes. However, most of the wines can be up to 100 per cent assyrtiko.
The traditional designation vinsanto is used for sun-dried sweet wines (naturally sweet or fortified) and are produced from at least 51 per cent assyrtiko grapes. The remainder is from the aidani and athiri varieties and small quantities of the white "foreign" varieties, which are traditionally grown in the Thera and Thirassia islands, however a number of other local white grapes is permitted. For vinsanto, the fruit is placed on mats in the vineyards and left to dehydrate under the sun in order to concentrate sugars, aromas and flavours. Vinsanto wines are among the greatest dessert wines in the world. They're amber-brown in colour, lusciously sweet yet balanced by high-acidity and complex, with persistent aromas of dried fruits, honey, caramel, coffee, nuts and spices.
The Santorinian vineyard is dominated by assyrtiko, however a small percentage of other white or red varieties is cultivated. These wines may be varietally labelled and bear the designations PGI Cyclades or PGI Aegean Sea on the label.
The island of Paros is another popular tourist destination in the heart of Aegean Sea. The central part of the island is hilly, and scattered vineyards are found across the island. PDO Paros (ΠΟΠ Πάρος) allows savoury whites made from 100 per cent monemvasia grapes and reds, which are made from co-vinification of the deeply coloured mandilaria and the white monemvasia grapes.
Paros was granted a second PDO appellation, PDO Malvasia Paros (ΠΟΠ Malvasia Πάρος), allowing sweet, barrel-aged wines, made from a blend of sun-dried monemvasia grapes with a dash of assyrtiko. Monemvasia and mandilaria dominate the vineyards, however a number of other grapes such as assyrtiko and malagousia are cultivated.
Tinos is also an emerging island in the wine-making scene that attracted a number of producers with its long-standing heritage and wealth of indigenous grape varieties. Here, mavrotragano, assyrtiko, as well as the local potamisi, and other unsung grapes are used to make interesting wines under the PGI Cyclades (ΠΓΕ Κυκλάδες) or PGI Aegean Sea (ΠΓΕ Αιγαίο Πέλαγος) designations.
Muscat produces some wonderful sweet wines, most notably on the islands of Samos and Limnos, but Rhodes as well. PDO Samos (ΠΟΠ Σάμος), in the North Aegean Sea is a historic appellation and white muscat dominates the plantings for the production of the sweet-only PDO Samos (ΠΟΠ Σάμος). Many types are produced, from fortified to naturally sweet — the latter made from sun-dried grapes. The styles range from young, unoaked and fortified, focusing on primary fresh fruit to intense, oak-matured, complex wines with rancio aromas. Both are among Europe’s greatest sweet wines.
Dry versions are also produced; however, they are not allowed to bear the designation PDO Samos (ΠΟΠ Σάμος) on the label. They are sold under the PGI Slopes of Ampelos (ΠΓΕ Πλαγιές Αμπέλου) or PGI Aegean Sea (ΠΓΕ Αιγαίο Πέλαγος), and they burst with varietal aromas and nice freshness, and are very refreshing. Usually grapes for these are sourced from higher altitudes.
Limnos is the second most important wine-producing island in the Northern Aegean, and its vineyards are dominated by the muscat of alexandria. PDO Muscat of Limnos (ΠΟΠ Μοσχάτος Λήμνου) is reserved for white, forward, wonderful sweet wines made from 100 per cent muscat of alexandria. On the other hand, PDO Limnos (ΠΟΠ Λήμνος) focuses on the production of dry wines from Muscat, as well as reds, both dry and sweet. Limnio is the most planted red grape variety and it is used as a single variety in the dry reds PDO Limnos. For the sweet red wines of the appellation, a small percentage (10 per cent) of muscat of alexandria is added.
Rhodes is the largest island of the Dodecanese complex and the most significant in terms of wine production. Vineyards on the slopes of Mount Atavyros are relatively cooler and higher altitude moderates summer heat. Athiri, a historic Aegean grape, is predominant in Rhodes and produces fruity, soft and moderately aromatic wines. Ungrafted, old, bush-vines from higher altitudes display an intense mineral character.
White PDO Rhodes are made predominantly from athiri, with a small percentage of malagousia and assyrtiko. Red and rosé PDO Rhodes are based on mandilaria (amorgiano) grape. PDO Muscat of Rhodes (ΠΟΠ Μοσχάτος Ρόδου) is a blend of white muscat and muscat of trani (a variation of the small-berried muscat) and can be sun-dried or fortified. In addition, Rhodes has been the leading source of Greek bottle-fermented sparkling wines, although some bottlings are tank-fermented.
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