In a city that prides itself on reinvention, St. Lawrence Market is one of Toronto's most enduring landmarks. Established in 1803, the covered market has served as an important hub for Torontonians and part of the city’s heritage, but it has a curious past. The Main Building was home to Toronto's first permanent city hall and jailhouse from 1845 to 1899. But in its 220-year history, St. Lawrence Market has never lost its sense of community.
Local chef and St. Lawrence Market aficionado, Matt Dean Pettit
Spread across three buildings, the market has grown and evolved from a humble farmers’ market to a place where antique dealers tout their wares and gourmands sip and shop. Find intergenerational farming families selling cheese and meat next to diners slinging legendary peameal bacon sandwiches and coffee roasters cozied up beside gourmet sweet treats. The best part about a visit to the market, though, is getting lost and discovering new gems.
While grocery shopping these days is more expensive than ever, buying local shouldn’t mean a bigger bill. We chat with chef Matt Dean Pettit, Trinity Market co-owner and St. Lawrence Market ambassador, to find out why he does his weekly shop at the public market.
Why is St. Lawrence Market your go-to grocery?
“I've been going since I was a little kid. My parents would take me and walk me around the market. There were so many sights and sounds and different languages being spoken. It was a different world. When I became a chef and restaurateur, it was a natural progression to shop here. I go once or twice a week; it’s part of my routine. It's easy for somebody to fall in love with it quickly if you spend some time and meet the vendors.”
How should we navigate the market?
“Walk, talk, snack, shop, smile. Try things; be adventurous. Ask the vendors questions. Often, these are generations-old vendors, so lean on them — they’re the best resource ... Whether you’re planning dinner for four, eight or 16 people, go and plan your meal there. The vendors will ask, ‘Are you thinking chicken or pork? How many people? What’s your budget?’ Then, they’ll walk you through how to cook it.”
What are some of your favourite stalls in the market?
“Paddington’s Pump is one of the last of its kind. Call it what it is — greasy spoon diner. It opens early, and you can still get a great cup of coffee and a full breakfast for a great price. I usually walk in and get coffee, and marble rye with peanut butter. Mike's Fish Market is great if I feel like knocking back oysters. There aren’t many places where you can pop in, lean on the bar and pick your oysters from a menu.
Most of the time, people enter on the upper level but go downstairs: Pasta Mia's got fantastic Italian coffee. Crêpe It Up will make you the best French sweet and savoury Parisian crêpes right in front of you. Nancy Manotas [of Manotas Organics and Fine Latin Foods] is a Latin chef and small business owner. Chefs know that if you need puff pastry (because none of us want to make it), you can buy it here in sheets. Kozlik's Mustard — their first-ever stand is there. There are 50 different kinds of mustard. You can get a peameal bacon sandwich, dip it in and have a little taste.”
What are the best days to visit the market?
Because the market is closed on Mondays, vendors will often offer deals on Saturday or Sunday evenings. During the week, fresh products are brought in so vendors can be fully stocked by the weekend, which is the busiest time. If you can swing a Friday morning shop, you’ll likely have the best selection and beat the crowds. Wednesdays and Thursdays are production days for the butchers, so that’s the best time to find fresh handmade sausages and meat pies.
Any tips or hacks?
“I either go first thing in the morning if I'm looking for something specific because they will sell out of some things. Or, if I'm just randomly shopping for the day or the week, I'll go later because then I can haggle with people. You might get a little deal, and sometimes cash can go further. People know upstairs, but downstairs, the secrets are there. There are so many great places downstairs for you to explore.”
Why is it important to support local?
“Just because something is local, organic, small production or a family farm, doesn't mean it has to be expensive … From a quality standpoint, we want traceability and low transportation, so there’s never been a better time to support local … They know exactly where it's coming from because it's what they do for a living. Bobby at Upper Cut Meats has been working for the same people for years. Those are his pieces of meat; he knows the cattle. You can never replicate that passion with the owner.”
What would you tell someone who has never been to St. Lawrence Market?
“You’re late to the party! There's a reason why it's been named one of the best food markets in the world, year after year, across multiple global publications. It has that history. Toronto is very proud of St. Lawrence Market. Canada's very proud of it.”
What else is going on at the market?
From June to October, Market Street is pedestrianized with live music on weekday evenings, family-friendly activities on Thursdays, and music and dance sessions on Sundays. From June until September, Dean Pettit's Trinity Market will also be popping up for a Wine Garden series at St. Lawrence Market complete with a wine bar, a bottle shop, and curated snacks. You'll also find cooking classes like Phyllo Dough from Scratch, supper clubs and REmarket, an event which allows guests to trade, donate and take unwanted items. Be sure to check out the website for an up-to-date schedule.
How has St. Lawrence Market changed over the years?
“One of the standouts is the market’s extended days and times. The after-work crowd couldn’t always access it, but now it’s open until 7 p.m. [from Tuesday to Friday]. And now it's open on Sundays. Another big change is that there are a lot more prepared foods now, like sandwiches, oysters, sushi, pizza. What a great place to try different foods all in one spot.”
