You know her as the ambitious and talented owner of one of Toronto's most iconic restaurants, Pai — but before her success, chef Nuit Regular came from humble beginnings.
Regular began cooking as a child and was first introduced to the restaurant industry as a kitchen helper in street restaurants. She spent nearly a decade working as a nurse in Pai, Thailand, before making her first foray into the culinary world as a restaurateur. While still working at the hospital, she launched The Curry Shack with her now-husband, Jeff Regular.
When the Regulars moved to Canada, she had every intention to continue her nursing career, but the restaurant world called her name instead. Now, years later, she's built a small empire that includes some of the best restaurants in Toronto. Of course, there's Pai; known for frequent celebrity guests, it's where Regular serves Michelin-recognized Northern Thai cuisine. Kiin, Regular's upscale tasting menu joint, is also on the Michelin guide; Sukohthai keeps things casual with more northern Thai flavours.
Regular's brand new bar, Tha Phae Tavern, is steps away from Pai in the Entertainment District in the old Selva location. I spoke with the seminal chef about what she's most excited for at her new spot, along with her favourite places in the city for everything from sweet treats to brunch.
What are you most excited about at Tha Phae Tavern?
“Guests can expect a lively, welcoming space that captures the spirit of adventure and connection. It's inspired by the vibrant energy I get in Chiang Mai, Thailand, where locals and travellers come together. It has a wonderful mixture of cultures, people from all over the world — different languages and different food. We wanted to create the feeling of discovery, that's spontaneous and fun.”
“The menu that I created is still rooted in traditional Thai snacks. But I also have international dishes, with Thai flavours ... We have karaoke, claw machines for fun and excitement, and a photo booth to create beautiful memories. You can enjoy with friends or by yourself.”
“I think the really exciting thing is getting to share the playful side of Thailand. [Each of my establishments] has a unique identity; at Pai, we do Northern Thai cuisine; at Kiin we do Royal Thai with modern techniques. And then at Sukothai, we do street food. Here at Tha Phae Tavern, we want to show the experience of exploring at night for Thai food. Step in for some beers and some snacks, and meet new friends!”
What's your favourite bar in Toronto?
“We recently just went out to a bar on Bloor West, Civil Liberties. It's a very cute little bar. I love that they custom-make a cocktail for you. They asked, 'what do you prefer?' I was like, 'I want something refreshing and smoky.' So, just like that they created it and surprisingly, it was so good.”
What's a meal you had recently that impressed you?
“Shout out to chef Eva Chin at Yan Dining Room. … She has so much passion, with her cooking and her approach … She pays homage to classic Chinese dishes while incorporating modern techniques and local ingredients. And her storytelling — it's on another level. She’s innovative while honouring the roots of Chinese culinary heritage. It's similar to me, because I’m also innovative in Thai cooking, with roots in Thai heritage.”
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Where do you go for a sweet treat?
“I like to go for durian sometimes. To grab fresh durian from an Asian grocery store, or even a frozen one — that would be my guilty pleasure. I often go all the way to Scarborough to Foody World. My son drove me there one time ... He kept saying he was going to throw up. So, when we were close to home, I hung the durian out the window. It was so hilarious.”
What are your favourite cafés in Toronto?
“I have several. The first one is near my house; I like to walk in the morning to go to Seb’s Cappuccino on the Danforth. They have a beautiful space with art.
“I like to go to Rooster Coffee House; they have a beautiful view overlooking the DVP and Toronto. Or, I just go across the street … They have a Simit & Chai that just opened right across from Pai. We have coffee with my team over there.”
What's your go-to date night spot?
“[Jeff and I] are so busy working, but when we have a night off, we like to go to Grey Gardens. It's a very cute, intimate space and lovely atmosphere. I love the food.”
Where do you go for a good meal on a budget?
“I like to go to Que Ling. It’s Vietnamese, in a very small house near Broadview and Dundas. I like to grab some of the phở and the Vietnamese steamed rice rolls, bánh cuốn. It's like a wrap with minced pork. Or, sometimes, just a bowl of noodle soup — it feels so homey. [It’s great] value for the food there. Locals go there… You feel like you go off to a different part of Toronto.”
What's your favourite neighbourhood in Toronto?
“I live in the east end, and I like to go for walks and shop in Leslieville. I like to go to the farmer's market there ... we grab some coffee and get bread and some other stuff. And then lots of time we go for brunch at Maha's Egyptian Brunch.”
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Read moreWhat's your favourite night out spot?
“As I'm so busy at my restaurants right now, my favourite spot for a night out is Tha Phae Tavern, my new concept on Richmond Street. It features private karaoke rooms.
“I always love to sing the old Thai songs. But in English, my go-to will be 'Colors of the Wind,' from Pocahontas. Jeff’s birthday is coming up. He always likes me to start [singing] first ... then I give the mic to him and he takes the rest.”
