In a city where tartares are the trend and wagyu is suspiciously ubiquitous on menus, Gia marches to the beat of its own drum. The humble-yet-stylish Italian restaurant on Dundas West follows a plant-forward philosophy, with the goal of more sustainable eating. Most plates are entirely vegan or can be veganized, with the exception of an irresistibly plump burrata and a few plates of fresh, made-in-house pasta.
You could be rubbing your belly, loosening your belt and perusing the dessert menu before you even realize everything you’ve enjoyed that night is meat-free. It’s eating consciously, unconsciously. The love and care co-owners and partners Stacey Patterson and Jenny Coburn have poured into their menu is evident in every bite you’ll eagerly shovel into your mouth. It’s no wonder Toronto’s Michelin Guide just recognized them for a third year.
Gia: The vibe
Cool in an effortless-sort-of-way, like the aunt who’d slip you $20 with a wink when you were a kid, Gia doesn’t take itself too seriously. A sleek bar, illuminated by gold globe lights and tasteful purple mood lighting, greets my brother and me as we mosey inside. White brick walls are punctuated with funky mirrors and potted plants; guests sink into comfy burnt-orange booths. The energy is high, and by the looks of things, I wager there are more than a few new couples here on a second date.
It’s busy, and with the petit restaurant’s precious few seats, I’m grateful to have a reservation. Patterson is gliding from table to table, cracking wise with guests with an infectious energy and a wry grin. She’s eager to show me the schematics of Stefano’s Sandwiches, her brand-new, fully vegan diner that’s now open just across the street from Gia. It’s an idea that’s been in the works since the pandemic, and I’m excited to see what Patterson and her team are cooking up.
Patterson isn’t vegan or vegetarian, but she recognizes the importance of eating less meat for the betterment of the planet. She’s also a “conceptual chef,” and pushes her staff to find new and innovative ways to cook delicious plates, with primarily plant-based ingredients.
Gia: The menu
Fresh focaccia, made with Brodflour red fife flour, lands on our table first. There are four girthy slices, and I’m admittedly nervous about filling up and succumbing to the carbs before I hit the main course. But, digging in — and generously coating each slab with a vegan butter spread — I’m pleasantly surprised at just how light and airy they are, and I’m left with plenty of room for the plates to come.
Next up, four meatballs arrive canoodling in a spiced tomato sugo, sporting a dollop of vegan mozzarella and a basil leaf hat. The “meat” is actually textured vegetable protein, seasoned to mimic ground beef’s flavour profile, but you’d never be able to tell. A spoon cuts through these little spheres of delectable joy like butter. It’s a humble starter, and easily one of the best plates on the menu. I mop up the remaining sugo with some leftover focaccia, and soon deeply regret not wearing stretchier pants.
Plant-based brie
Gia’s plant-based brie is hands-down the best dish I’ve had this year. It’s served atop a sweet jam made from Ontario peaches, with a healthy drizzle of vibrant basil oil. The nut-based cheese, made by Better Brie, is aged and ripened, resulting in a firm rind and sinfully gooey centre. The herbaceous notes, indulgent creaminess of the cheese and bright pop of peach are a masterfully conducted orchestra of complimentary flavour profiles. I’m gobsmacked — I’d eat this plate for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and will certainly be returning to Gia to savour it again.
We play a cautious game of spice roulette with a steep pile of charred shishito peppers before the mains arrive. Still raving fanatically about the brie — whose plate we’ve unabashedly licked clean — I’m unsure how this meal can get any better.
Lions mane bistecca
The lion’s mane bistecca will convert the staunchest meat eater into a believer of plant-based cooking, Patterson tells me, and when it arrives, I do a triple take. Marinated in high-tannin red wine, beet juice, rosemary and thyme for three days, then slow-roasted and lightly smoked, it has a pink-ish centre. The mushroom is then seared in vegan butter, garlic and herbs to create a crust that completes its appearance as a steak doppelganger. Each bite is succulent and tender — the flavour leans more towards umami than a traditional sirloin, but as a mushroom lover, I’m not complaining.
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Read moreThe spinach ravioli hits my plate, and I’ve already loosened my belt several additional notches and am nearing food-coma levels of bliss. I find the willpower to sink my teeth into the little green squares, though, and I relish the pillowy potato filling that oozes out. The garlicky cashew-cream base is simple, letting the pasta shine. All of Gia’s pasta is handmade fresh in-house, and it melts in my mouth.
Strawberry lemon basil sorbet
Something light for dessert, I beg my server, who returns with a freshly brewed espresso and a scoop of coconut vanilla ice cream, from Death in Venice. This affogato is the lovely kiss goodnight from a meal that wowed me at every turn.
Gia: The drinks
Sommelier Matthew DeGasperis offers a curated selection of organic and biodynamic wines, with a handful available by-the-glass. I’d recommend opting for a bottle, though, to fully experience DeGasperis’s eye for sustainable Old- and New-world gems.
There are a handful of craft cocktails — try the Picante Pasini for a friendly tickle of spice from habanero on each sip, or the I Should Live in Salt, a briney and herbaceous take on a martini. Or, opt for a mocktail or booze-free beer if you’re not imbibing.
Gia’s unstuffy, forward-thinking Italian plates are for everyone to enjoy, not just vegans and vegetarians. Paired with a stylish, relaxed and intimate space, this Dundas West spot is as cool as ever and is perfect for your next date night.
Dinner and drinks for two, about $135 before tax and tip
