In 2024, steakhouses, swanky omakase joints, sexy Italian eateries and trussed-up international chains dominated the slate of new Toronto openings every month. So, I was astonished to discover that one of my favourite Montréal vegan restaurants had quietly set up shop on Queen West. Sushi Momo’s two Québec locations have built a sizeable cult following; naturally, I was itching to visit the Toronto installation to determine if it measured up and if it's one of the best vegan restaurants in Toronto.
If I can give you one piece of advice before making your reservation, it’s to keep an open mind. During my dinner, I’m picking my jaw up off the floor with each bite; Sushi Momo, and its forward-thinking chef Christian Ventura, don’t play by the rules.
Sushi Momo: What’s the vibe?
Now open in the former Hello123 location, Sushi Momo is nestled in a hot strip of great restaurants at Queen and Dovercourt. Trudging up the steps, I’m curious to see how they’ve transformed the space.
Inside, everything feels refreshed and updated. Sushi Momo is as clean and elegant as a blank canvas — and that's a good thing, too, because the adventurous plates need lots of room to breathe. The understated, Japanese-Scandi dining room features white-brick walls, and you can’t help but sigh as you sink into the plush blue couches. Set to 90s R'n'B hits, it’s a tranquil backdrop for the vibrant palette of the dishes arriving at my table.
There’s extra seating on the indoor patio, but I opt for a table in the main dining room. The energy is higher and conversations are livelier.
Sushi Momo: What’s on the menu?
Japanese classics like miso soup, soba salad and gyoza populate the appetizer menu, along with a few mind-boggling fusion plates. The Sashizza is a cheeky cross between sashimi and pizza; a crispy cracker-style base is loaded with melt-in-your-mouth konjac salmon, spicy mayo, fresh avocado, pickled onion and a teensy spoonful of vegan caviar. It’s delicate, with plenty of crunch, and the salmon is phenomenal — it's a huge hit at the table. It’s good that the dish only comes with two pieces to avoid any heated bartering over who gets to savour any remaining morsels.
French inspirations pop up in a truffle mushroom tartare; Italian, in the shiitake arancini with miso parmesan and sushi rice; and Peruvian in a leche de tigre salmon tiradito.
The agedashi tofu appetizer is substantial enough to be a main, and as I sink my teeth into the four juicy chunks of soy, I’m cautious of filling up too quickly. Paired with tensuyu (tempura dip) and ume (plum sauce), it takes every ounce of willpower not to scoff this down with zeal.
Then, the real fun begins. Brimming with a bouquet of colourful, eccentric rolls, a beautiful wood platter is placed ceremoniously on the table to a chorus of 'oohs' and 'aahs.' My eyes light up, and my heart rate quickens — this is unlike any sushi I’ve ever seen.
Chef Ventura’s out-of-the-box sushi is a relaxed, unstuffy playground of brilliant textures, experimental flavours and clever presentations. With every new piece I chopstick into my mouth, it gets harder to contain my excitement and, at times, pleasant bewilderment.
Mr Crunch lives up to his name; a generous coating of rice pearls provides an eye-popping texture, with an explosion of umami flavour from king oyster mushrooms and truffle sauce. It’s a strong contender for my favourite roll on the menu.
The Nine-One-One cranks the thermostat by igniting my tastebuds with a delectable habanero pineapple sauce, conservatively slathered atop each piece. There's pickled red cabbage and red pepper, smoked tofu, avocado and more tightly tucked into this roll’s depths.
The Delhi takes a stab at vegan shrimp futomaki, loaded with tempura, and it's mostly successful. Similarly, the Avocado and Black Garlic “krispy” rice roll sticks its landing with ample veggie-stuffed filling, but doesn’t quite deliver enough garlic to be desperate for a breath mint.
Things get wild with the Big M, an admittedly polarizing “big mac” sushi roll that's made with faux meat and kewpie mayo; the Gyu, a creamy beef roll that blesses your taste buds with a blast of basil; and the Wellington, a pastry-wrapped maki adorned with a squirt of teriyaki-wasabi sauce and truffle paste. This is Ventura’s unbridled creativity at its most ambitious, and each bite leaves me reeling, disoriented and ultimately satisfied — then, clamouring for the next piece.
Sushi Momo: The drinks
If you’re not shy to try new things, Sushi Momo is an excellent date night spot. There’s a small but mighty cocktail menu to quench your and boo’s thirst. My favourite tipple is the La Vie en Rose, a floral, citrusy number made with plum wine, vodka and Japanese liqueur. There's a selection of natural wines and sake, too.
Sushi Momo: What else?
Sushi Momo also offers a four-course tasting menu for $65, which includes 12 pieces of sushi.
I’d be hard-pressed to think of another sushi experience in Toronto that reaches the same levels of textural and flavour creativity of Sushi Momo, plant-based or otherwise. Leave your expectations at the door, and you’ll love every bite.
Dinner and drinks for two; $70 before tax and tip
