Craigellachie single malts have only been on the market since 2014 – they were first released as part of the John Dewar and Sons "Last Great Malts" range – but it's safe to say that they've already earned a bit of a following.
That's thanks, at least in part, to some clever marketing. Dewar's does a great job of playing up Craigellachie's quirks: starting with an oil-fired kiln to malt the barley (that's adding sulphur notes right off the bat), through using worm tubs to convert the alcohol vapour into liquid (and imparting a bit of meaty flavour in the process), to the actual ages of their releases (13, 17, 19 and 23 years old – all prime numbers). The idea is, you need to be a little offbeat to appreciate this whisky.
In practice, it's actually quite a nice dram – and perhaps not as divisive as the marketing makes out. (And while it's not the most expensive bottle in the range, at this price point, it's good to know you're not taking a gamble.) There's some smoke throughout, from the nose to the lingering finish, but it's gentle enough not to scare a whisky novice. There's also a fresh, juicy fruit thing going on in the aromatics, but on the palate, it's more Christmas spice and baked apples. As for the meatiness – it's there, but by no means as a dominant flavour. Overall, a nicely balanced single malt.
$79.95; LCBO
