What’s the vibe?
AF1 is the latest restaurant to take over the corner of College and Clinton St., a theoretically great location previously occupied by a series of short-lived eateries. With chef Adrian Forte of Dirty Bird fame at the helm, AF1 seems poised to end the space’s streak of closures.
The restaurant’s bright interior has a modern yet beachy feel, furnished with mismatched chairs and colourful distressed wood flooring. The menu draws on Forte’s Jamaican heritage, including a recent journey home during which he focused on deepening his knowledge of the country’s culinary traditions. In keeping with the eatery’s casual atmosphere, diners order by filling out a menu card and passing it through a window counter to kitchen staff.
What to drink?
The short drinks menu stays on theme with offerings like Jamaica’s signature Red Stripe beer and Ting, a fizzy soft drink popular in the Caribbean. The rum punch is already becoming a favourite among regulars, a sweet, fruity cocktail with a serious boozy kick. It’s served in a basic plastic cup, exactly the way you’d expect to get it at an island beach bar.
What to eat?
AF1’s menu emphasizes classic Jamaican dishes.
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We started with the fish fritters, which have a satisfyingly crispy battered exterior and a soft codfish interior seasoned with thyme. For the peppered shrimp, fat B.C. spot prawns are covered in a boldly spicy purée of scotch bonnets and cane vinegar that’s impossible to eat without making a mess (but well worth it!). The side of brown rice and peas is boiled in coconut milk, bringing a depth to the otherwise simple dish. The stand-out, however, was the oxtail. It’s braised in sherry wine, beef stock and a savoury mix of herbs and spices for three hours, making for tender pieces of oxtail and a thick, saucy broth. According to chef Forte, a dessert menu is also in the works.
Dinner and drinks for two: around $50
596 College St., 647-340-3924, caribbeancanteen.ca
